The Askival of Strathearn Handcrafted tailored kilt is of the highest standard meeting quality criteria set by kilt making professional bodies of the past.
Askival of Strathearn Quality Standards
- 100% hand stitched, using matching threads
- 100% wool worsted tartan
- Twill direction correct throughout the kilt
- Uniform, discrete stitching throughout, 7-9 Fell stitches per inch
- Pleated area primary canvas min 8cm deep, secured by 1.5cm long pad stitch
- Secondary canvas to help smooth the appearance of the pleated area where the pleats have been cut reduce the bulk of cloth and also be a strong anchor for the chapes and their buckles.
- Apron canvas 10-16cm deep, double pad stitched at both edges and onto apron where appropriate and possible
- Pleats, maximise the number, the average adult kilt aims to have between 27 and 34 pleats. Individually invisibly “lifted” at the bottom of pleating line
- Pleats to be between 7cm and 15cm deep
- Fringe, hand dimple stitched, max 2cm depth over 1,2 or 3 fringes
- Belt and/or sporran loops, 1cm, hand sewn, matching the tartan selvedge
- Waistband, 1-1.5cm deep, matching front apron and under apron with symmetry in the positioning over the pleated area.
- Linings, darts stitched in place, stitched onto aprons where appropriate and possible
- Upper Chapes, matching on the third pleat
- Rise, as per the wearer’s requirements
- Straps, 2 or 3, as per the wearer’s requirements
- Use of steam to shrink, stretch and shape the tartan and canvasses
- Fringe Apron edge inlays, spring and box pleats to accommodate enough fabric to enable letting in and letting throughout the life time of the wearer.
- Fabric folded within the waistband to maintain matching on outer and inner aprons and symmetry in the back pleated area when let in or let out.
Two and a half decades ago the Kilt Maker’s Association of Scotland (KMAS) provided a recognised standard of quality to support a commitment to maintaining traditional standards in tailoring and materials. There standards were:
- Fabric – must be of recognised commercial quality with worsted type finish and a good selvedge;
- Amount of fabric used – KMAS standards specify approximately 7.3 meters (about 8 yards) or more;
- Pleats – there must be a minimum of 23 pleats, and they must be evenly measured showing the sett or line. The pleats must be hand stitched through the fell to approximately 1/3 the length of the kilt;
- Front aprons – must be proportionately sized, centered and fastening to the right;
- Sewing thread – must be corespun and at least 50 weight;
- Sewing accuracy – must be straight and hand stitched with at least 6 stitches every 2 cm.
- Canvas, lining, buckles – KMAS standards require a good quality canvas liner without starch, soap or synthetics. As well, the canvas depth is specified and specifications are set for the buckles and straps.