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Quality Criteria for the Handcrafted Tailored Kilt



QUALITY STANDARDS

The Askival of Strathearn Handcrafted tailored kilt is of the highest standard meeting quality criteria set by kilt making professional bodies of the past.

Askival of Strathearn Quality Standards

  • 100% hand stitched, using matching threads
  • 100% wool worsted tartan
  • Twill direction correct throughout the kilt
  • Uniform,  discrete stitching throughout, 7-9 Fell stitches per inch
  • Pleated area primary canvas min 8cm deep, secured by 1.5cm long pad stitch
  • Secondary canvas to help smooth the appearance of the pleated area where the pleats have been cut reduce the bulk of cloth and also be a strong anchor for the chapes and their buckles.
  • Apron canvas 10-16cm deep, double pad stitched at both edges and onto apron where appropriate and possible
  • Pleats, maximise the number, the average adult kilt aims to have between 27 and 34 pleats. Individually invisibly “lifted” at the bottom of pleating line
  • Pleats to be between 7cm and 15cm deep
  • Fringe, hand dimple stitched, max 2cm depth over 1,2 or 3 fringes
  • Belt and/or sporran loops, 1cm, hand sewn, matching the tartan selvedge
  • Waistband, 1-1.5cm deep, matching front apron and under apron with symmetry in the positioning over the pleated area.
  • Linings, darts stitched in place, stitched onto aprons where appropriate and possible
  • Upper Chapes, matching on the third pleat
  • Rise, as per the wearer’s requirements
  • Straps, 2 or 3, as per the wearer’s requirements
  • Use of steam to shrink, stretch and shape the tartan and canvasses
  • Fringe Apron edge inlays, spring and box pleats to accommodate enough fabric to enable letting in and letting throughout the life time of the wearer.
  • Fabric folded within the waistband to maintain matching on outer and inner aprons and symmetry in the back pleated area when let in or let out.

Two and a half decades ago the Kilt Maker’s Association of Scotland (KMAS) provided a recognised standard of quality to support a commitment to maintaining traditional standards in tailoring and materials. There standards were:

  • Fabric – must be of recognised commercial quality with worsted type finish and a good selvedge;
  • Amount of fabric used – KMAS standards specify approximately 7.3 meters (about 8 yards) or more;
  • Pleats – there must be a minimum of 23 pleats, and they must be evenly measured showing the sett or line. The pleats must be hand stitched through the fell to approximately 1/3 the length of the kilt;
  • Front aprons – must be proportionately sized, centered and fastening to the right;
  • Sewing thread – must be corespun and at least 50 weight;
  • Sewing accuracy – must be straight and hand stitched with at least 6 stitches every 2 cm.
  • Canvas, lining, buckles – KMAS standards require a good quality canvas liner without starch, soap or synthetics. As well, the canvas depth is specified and specifications are set for the buckles and straps.

 

 

 

Copyright © Askival of Strathearn 2014
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